by Joseph Wallace
Kampala spooked us from the moment we arrived. The
capital of Uganda, a country then under the thumb of a madman
named Idi Amin, it was built on a series of huddled hills
patrolled by jackal-like dogs that would stare you down if
challenged. The streets were deserted at night, with only an
occasional car speeding past or pedestrian hurrying to an unknown
destination. And even during the day the city was so quiet that
the whistling wind and yowling cries of the go-away birds echoed
in our ears.
At night we visited the vast, empty Hotel Intercontinental,
drinking Seven and Sevens in the lounge while a jazz quartet
played "Take Five" over and over, then stumbling back to our
hotel rooms under a predawn sky filled with flying foxes flapping
overhead on silent wings.
Heading back to our own shabby hotel one night, we took a wrong
turn and came upon a small park hidden behind high stone walls.
Beyond the locked front gate we could see only blackness, but the
night's silence was punctuated by a chorus of deep, wrenching
moans and cries coming from behind the walls. Hurrying away, we
agreed that the sounds came from night-calling frogs, but deep
down we suspected a human origin.
One morning Pete woke to find half his traveler's checks gone.
Someone must have come into our room during the night and taken
them.
"We have to call the police," he said.
I said I didn't think that was a good idea, but Pete was adamant.
"If we don't, the same guy will do it to other people," he said.
"And who knows, maybe next time he'll choose a room where the
people wake up, and end up killing them. We have to report it.
It's the only moral choice."
Captain Setongo, the police officer who came to our hotel, was
short and stocky, with eyes as round and unrevealing as marbles.
He wrote down our brief report without comment, then looked up
and flashed a sudden, wolfish grin. "Americans!" he said.
Two days later, close to midnight, someone knocked at the door to
our room. I was dozing, Pete was writing a postcard home, and
neither of us felt much like opening the door. But the knock came
again, more insistently, so I got up and went to see who it was.
A scared-looking night watchman in a threadbare gray uniform
stood in the hall. "Please come with me," he said.
"Where?" I asked.
"Downstairs," he said. "Please come."
We followed him past the lobby, through a staff-only door, and
down a long, dank corridor flanked by storage and laundry rooms.
"Where are you taking us?" I asked, but received no reply.
I found out soon enough. Near the end of the corridor, outside a
plain wooden door, stood a policeman. He glanced at us, then
nodded. The watchman, set free, turned without another word and
hurried away down the corridor, his footsteps echoing off the
empty walls.
The policeman swung the door open and gave a single flip of his
hand. I felt queasy, and my temples were pounding, as I stepped
inside.
The room, lit by the harsh glow of a single bare bulb, smelled of
spoiled fruit and sweat. Cartons of oatmeal and instant coffee
were stacked along one wall and crates of Tusker Lager along
another. Rafts of bananas hung from netting strung across the
ceiling.
A single wooden chair was pushed up against the far wall. Sitting
on the chair was a middle-aged man in a shabby white shirt and
black pants. His face was gray with terror. Beside him stood
Captain Setongo, marble eyes cold as he watched us enter.
"Do you know this man?" he asked.
The man in the chair stared at me, then shifted his gaze to Pete.
We looked back at him, and after a moment I shook my head. "I've
never seen him before in my life," I said.
But I was lying, and Pete was determined to tell the truth. "Yes,
I know him," he said. "He's a handyman. He fixed a leak in our
sink the day we got here."
The man gave us a look of such horror that I almost turned away.
But Captain Setongo smiled. "Did you take these Americans'
travelers checks?" he asked.
"No," the man said.
Captain Setongo grabbed him by the hair and slammed his head
against the wall. The impact resounded with a dull boom and the
plaster cracked, spiderlike lines radiating outwards like a halo.
The man's eyes grew hazy. His hands twisted helplessly in the
air.
"Stop," I said.
Captain Setongo ignored me, staring down at the dazed man in the
chair. "Did you take those checks?"
"Noó" His head thudded against the wall. "I didn'tó"
One more impact. Flakes of plaster fell from the ceiling, and
blood ran from his nose. Something white fell from his mouth and
bounced on the floor, coming to rest at my feet. A tooth.
"Did you take those checks?" the policeman asked again.
The man's eyes were closed, his head drooping. "Yesó" he
whispered.
"Yes. Good." Captain Setongo lifted his gaze and looked at me.
"You see now that we have found the right man."
"Wait," I said.
The captain smiled. "He confessed. He said he took your checks.
Stealing from American visitors is very serious."
The man was slumped back in the chair, eyes closed, the blood
from his nose running into his mouth. His lips were moving, but I
couldn't make out what he was saying.
Looking down at him, I felt a surge of rage. Without knowing
exactly what I intended to do, I took a step forward.
The officer tilted his head at me. Smiling, he waited to see what
I would do next. I felt Pete grab my arm. "Don't be stupid," he
said into my ear. "It's no use. Let's go."
After another moment, I let him pull me from the room. Captain
Setongo's laughter, chasing us down the hall, was as loud and
meaningless as the cry of a go-away bird. ![]()